But for additional help in later troubleshooting, label the wire on both ends. A simple piece of tape with a name written on it will do. Wire must be marine wire. You should not use auto wire. It is not made to the same standards as marine. Most marine wire is labeled UL It must be copper stranded wire. Do not scrimp on wire! Cheap wire could mean the difference between a reliable system and one that you constantly have to troubleshoot. Buy good quality wire.
Wiring up an Auto Bilge Pump in 10 Simple Steps
I could with a little help figure out a relay setup. It is a simple project but many people might hesitate to offer help online because just asking how indicates you might not have the skills or knowledge to work with mixed voltages and the components required to do the job yourself. Please don’t take that as an insult. If I went on a flying forum and asked how to start the engine of a specific aircraft, I bet a lot of people would be leery of responding.
If you want a schematic with a suggestion for components, I would be happy to send you one but only with your full appreciation that I have absolutely no control of how you build or install the system, no knowledge of your level of electrical safety awareness, and your complete understanding that if you do it wrong you might hurt yourself, someone else, the boat, and in the end it might not work at all for what you have in mind. Not because the design is faulty but because it was built and installed by someone not skilled in doing so.
Virtually no boat has a bilge pump system which is large enough to keep up with a leak caused by hull damage. Bilge pumps are designed for small quantities of water and are not damage control pumps like the ones Coast Guard helicopters drop.
Bilge Pumps in dual battery configuations. The last topic to consider is what to do with the bilge pump s. In the typical factory dual battery installation, the bilge pumps are wired directly to the batteries via fuse or circuit breaker , so that you cannot turn the pumps off, even if you turn the battery switch to the off position. However, when you install a battery switch to a single-battery boat, this situation may occur, as most bilge pumps are simply wired to the helm. To keep your boat from sinking when it is left unattended in the water, you may wish to directly connect the bilge pumps to the batteries.
A typical helm bilge switch is shown here. The bilge switch has an AUTO position, whereby power is supplied to the float switch and an ON position, where the pump can be manually operated. As power is supplied via the boat’s 12V distribution system, it will be affected by the insertion of the dual battery switch. Unfortunately, this will disable the bilge pump should the dual battery switch be turned off. To correct this problem, the float switch is disconnected from the helm bilge switch and directly connected to the battery.
To meet USCG requirements 33USC when making this connection, a new fuse or circuit breaker for the bilge pump must be located as close to the battery as practical. As the helm bilge pump switch no longer has an AUTO function, it is good practice to replace this switch with an On-Off switch. While this is not necessary, it does prevent confusion as to the function of the switch.
How to wire a 12 volt automatic bilge pump. In a boat.
Originally Posted by Bluefishing should have been more specific. I want to wire the bilge pump directly to the battery, no switches at all. The model I have doesn’t have a float switch, it is as someone else mentioned, the type that turns on for. Assuming the bilge pump auto feature is not broken it at least 5 years old.
· If you can pump let’s say gph out of a 11/4 hose it doesn’t take a very big hole to overcome a couple of bilge pumps. If your are wanting to stay a float I would put 2 gph and 1 gph. I kept the wired direct mainly because I would be gone for ?t=
Someone even asked me if my kayak leaks. Why would your kayak suddenly start leaking? Ok, so I carry a manual bilge pump, most of the time. Rule pumps seem to be the most popular on the market for marine use and they have the advantage of being able to run dry without water lubrication. After much research it became apparent that the gph gallons per hour was the model to go for. That narrowed it down to an automatic or manual version. I was originally going to go with a manual pump on cost grounds, though an Ebay bargain saw me go with an automatic version at the last minute!.
So the parts required, a bilge pump, 19mm piping, stainless pipe clips, waterproof switch, thru-hull skin fitting,foam pieces and Marine Goop. The next decision was where to fit the pump.
How to Keep Your Boat From Sinking
Fish box drains to bilge Guess the previous owner didnt fish much and deleted the macerator from the build sheet What do u think – Buy a large fish bag or new thru hull and drain it overboard? If it won’t hold ice very well then I would use it for storage and either bag or cooler the catch.
Aug 25, · I want to install a bilge pump in my zxi but Ive been hearing about drilling through the hull, using epoxy, glue guns, mounting brackts, screws into the hull, a .
Yes I can flip it on where it will bilge water. It is a 3-wire pump. But I can tell you that if the pump is stressed, and runs empty, it heats up the electronics and fails. To date, Rule has replaced the pumps we have had that failed with an argument. We had customers who had pump failures during recent hurricanes. Denis Auclair Depends on the length. Over six feet, maybe.
Trojan Boat Forum
Pump Priming the Easy Way This system will help you get a water pump working in no time. By Steve Maxwell July 10, Adding this simple shutoff valve to the supply is the key to easily priming a water pump. Depending on the kind of pump you’re using and the length of intake line, priming your system in the usual way — by pouring buckets of water down into the pump and pipe — can be slow, messy and infuriating. Water Pump Basics Water is the only liquid that expands as it freezes, and this is why most seasonal water systems need to be drained before winter.
Otherwise pump and pipes will crack under the strain of expanding ice.
Jul 06, · back-flow on bilge pump hose The WoodenBoat Forum is sponsored by WoodenBoat Publications, publisher of WoodenBoat magazine. The Forum is a free service, and much like the “free” content on Public Radio, we hope you will support WoodenBoat .
It’s not efficient, and does about as much cold air as a seltzer bottle. You have to wind it in a coil for the coolant to actually have any effect, whatsoever. Seriously am gonna make this! Just get a pump that does not need to be submerged. Get one that has an intake and output nipple on it for hooking up to tubing then run from your output to a plastic tube that goes to the coil of copper then from the copper output put a plastic tube that goes in to the cooler and forms another coil.
Fill the system with antifreeze. Now your copper tubing is isolated from the salt water and you actually get some rust prevention from the anti freeze. Oh and BTW fill the cooler with ice, rock salt, and salt water this will super cool it. It will probably form Ice on the coil rather then condensation. CraigR12 2 years ago Reply Great idea, plus removing the submersible pump will help prevent the water from warming up from the pump running. The pump generates heat too and will cause the water to warm up faster!
Homemade Air Conditioner
Tomorrow will mark four weeks since we arrived here, and it’s been longer than that since I last posted to the blog. It’s been an eventful few weeks, and I am going to try to catch all the way up in this post, so grab an adult beverage and settle in. Vector on the hard at Lauderdale Marine Center, having her bottom done. Today’s title is an expression we use often aboard Vector.
Boating stores carry flexible outflow pipe for bilge pumps if you choose the separate outflow option — do not use the corrugated hose (or use a larger size), it will reduce flows up to 30%. Wiring for the bilge pump to the battery.
The system overall is relatively simple- a 12V DC pump lives in the pit and is turned on by the controller when the water level rises above a level set by magnetic float sensors. At least that was the idea. Front panel The problem For the first year or two the system sat there blinking happily. That sounded weird after the system just sitting there charging all the time, so I started digging in.
First thing I noticed was that the battery is charged in a pulse fashion- the charger turns on for a bit, then turns off. Looking at the current, it would go into the battery for a bit, then out of it! The charge current was very small, and about on the order of discharge current.